Winery: Jim Barry

As I began my research on our Australian wine travels, Jim Barry wines were recommended by so many of the Australian Wine Instagrammers. Upon purchasing a bottle and posting about a visit, I received a message from Sue Barry. Over the following months, we went on to exchange messages. In those exchanges, I could get the sense they were a down to earth and passionate wine-loving family. Unfortunately for us, Sue and Tom were traveling to Greece while we were visiting, but Sue made sure we were well taken care of.

During our travel planning, Jim Barry wines was named Winery of the Year by James Halliday, a renowned Australian wine critic. They walked away with 12 wines scoring over 95 points, a first to have this number of outstanding quality wines. The passion certainly comes out in their wines and in touring the winery; it's lovely yet unassuming. I get the sense that these are the kind of people who are happy for the accolades yet humble in the acceptance. I've heard Peter's Irish ancestry has endowed him with a great sense of humor. I'd say it's undoubtedly provided him with a little luck of the Irish.

The Story:

It was Jim Barry's drive and community spirit that helped shape South Australia's Clare Valley as a benchmark in the world of Riesling and cemented its place as one of Australia's premier wine regions. Jim was the first winemaker in the Clare Valley to gain a Degree in Oenology. Working for over twenty years as a winemaker at the Clarevale Co-operative and helping to establish Taylors Wines. In 1959 Jim and Nancy purchased their first property and vineyards on the northern outskirts of Clare with the intentions of growing grapes. In 1964 they bought 70 acres of prime river flats in the Armagh area of Clare. This property would go on to be the foundation of their red wine production. In 1977 they purchased the 330 acre Lodge Hill property, historically known as Wolta Wolta. This would become home to some of the best Riesling and Shiraz.

Jim's son Peter Barry undertook his first vintage at the family's business in 1977 and took over in 1985. Peter and his wife Sue embarked on a steady expansion of the family's vineyards. Today they grow grapes in 10 locations in the Clare Valley totaling more than 500 acres, along with a 35-acre property in the Coonawarra region. One of these purchases stands out, the 80-acre Florita Vineyard or the little flower, it's become synonymous with excellent Riesling. Please don't assume this expansion allowed for any decline in quality, far from it, they focused more than ever on their approach and practices to produce premium wines. Peter and Sue's two sons, Tom and Sam, are now assuming the winemaking and promotional aspects of the family business.

Tom Barry is a third-generation winemaker, developing an interest early on. As the Clare Valley is the Riesling capital of Australia, Tom's interest in wine grew into a passion for Riesling. In 2010 he completed a vintage with Dr. Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley, Germany. He came back to Australia and worked for Yalumba and Shaw + Smith before returning home to the family business. He's gone on to be named 'Young Winemaker of the Year' in Australia. Tom and Dr. Loosen have recently joined together to produce Loosen Barry Riesling, which I can't wait to try.

The Barry family's philosophy of winemaking is straightforward; "We firmly believe that great wine is made in the vineyard. Over our 55 years, we have worked to establish a mosaic of vineyards across the Clare Valley, each unique in the site, soil, and aspect." The Barry family name has gone on to become synonymous with the Clare wine region, and their deep ties to the local community continue to this day. The family is apart of Australia's First Families of Wine and also promote the Australian wine industry.

The Wines:

The Florita (Little Flower)

Made from vines planted in 1962 (my birth year; no wonder I liked this wine). The vineyard came on the market in the mid-eighties, a time when others in Australia were pulling out their vines. Peter took a massive gamble on a site that produced 20,000 bottles with a market at the time of roughly 1,000. You see, Riesling had fallen out of favor during the rise of Chardonnay. Despite this, Jim knew that the Florita terrior was one of the best vineyards in the country and was crucial in their plans to produce premium Rieslings. Because of legalities with the name, he then had to wait for nearly two decades to retain it, but in 2004 Florita Riesling made its debut and created a legacy.

2013 Florita Riesling:

We were lucky enough to be there for a cellar release. There was some tell-tale petrol on the nose, but it was the aromas of citrus, grapefruit, and lime that flow into the glass. It has a steely acidity with great concentration. The aging adding some fullness and layering of flavors.

If you want to see just how impressive Clare Valley Riesling can be, this is a benchmark wine that you need to try. A suitcase wine I'm saving for a special occasion.

The Lodge Hill Wines:

The first time Jim Barry walked on the soils of Lodge Hill in 1977, he knew it was a unique site. It sits on one of the highest points in the valley. It also posses very different soil profiles, and warmer on the north-facing slope, in essence creating two vineyards in one. It now produces two of Jim Barry's outstanding wines; The Lodge Hill Riesling and The Lodge Hill Shiraz.

2019 Lodge Hill Riesling

Lime, citrus peel with ginger and slate-like acidity. This acidity will provide fantastic longevity for this wine.

The Assyrtiko Story:

Australia's first Assyrtiko originated from the Argyros Estate on Santorini. The story begins while Peter and Sue were on vacation in 2006. They were so intrigued by the Assyrtiko grape, they took steps to bring the varietal to Australia. This was no easy feat; they were placed in quarantine in Yalumba's nursery for two years to ensure no new diseases were brought into the country. It then took another 4 years before they picked the first grapes in 2014. The first commercial release wasn't until 2016, a ten-year journey from that initial visit.

2018 Assyrtiko

A sea spray with bursts of citrus, crisp and dry. This is a perfect wine to pair with a sunny summer day.

2015 Coonawarra Cabernet - First Eleven

Named in honor of the Australian cricket team. French oak-aged. Full-bodied. Blackberries and raspberries with soft tannins. As a young Cabernet, it was already smooth yet structured. This was one to put up against a Napa Cabernet; a steal for half the price.

Armagh Shiraz:

Some of the first vineyards planted by Jim Barry in 1968. The vineyard was named after the adjoining hamlet of Armagh, established by Irish settlers in 1849 and named after the lush rolling hills of their homeland. The vineyard is planted on its own roots on soil suitable for minimal intervention.

2014 Armagh Shiraz

Aged in American oak. It's a bright crimson red. A full-bodied Shiraz with dark cherries and blackberry notes. A savory wine with a long finish. Its rich and concentrated fruit produce a Shiraz with excellent aging potential.