What you'll uncover in Piedmont are incredible vistas overlooking endless hillside vineyards dotted with medieval villages, castles, and off in the distance the Alpine peaks. The local cuisine is one-of-a-kind with prized white truffles, and without question, a perfect destination for wine lovers.

 Exploring this region, you'll wind up and down the Apennine hills as you traverse the wine country. Maybe it's because of this terrain that you don't experience huge busloads of tourists, but rather the experiences have an intimate feel. Undoubtedly, contributing to this is the fact that almost 99% of the wineries are family-owned and passed down through generations, many of which consider themselves farmers first. You won't find huge chateaus or many modern architected wineries, but instead tasteful facilities that blend in with their historic surroundings. 

THE REGION:

Piedmont is a vast region full of sub-territories and microclimates. Every slope seems to faces a different direction, and the conditions determine the grape variety planted. It has undoubtedly set a high bar with the most DOCGs (17), which accounts for Italy's largest percentage of this highest quality classification. Another interesting note is that no wine can be bottled as IGT, wines that didn't meet the regions Italian wine rules and regulations. This plays a big part in why it is considered one of Italy's most traditional regions.

We were only able to dive into the regions of Barolo and Barbaresco and dip our toe across the Tanaro river into the Roero region to taste some Bianco Arneis. A better way to refer to this area would be to use the term Langhe, which is the local DOC zone that encompasses both and is used to classify wines. The Langhe is a hilly Unesco-protected region between the towns of Cuneo and Asti. 

Barolo and Barbaresco are the most well-known northern Italian red wines, but surprisingly they account for less than 10% of Piedmont's total production. That said, let me tell you there is a lot to uncover in these twelve appellations with these two most prestigious DOCGs.    

There is an essential geologic distinction within Barolo, differentiating the east and west. The eastern part of the zone has the older sediments (chalk, calcareous, more compact, and even some iron oxidation). The western offers sandy soils, less dense, and rich with magnesium. The distinction can be found in the wines' approachability, with those from the west generally being much more enjoyable in their youth than those coming from the east, requiring much more aging. Of course, there are many other distinguishing factors like slope and sun position, but this is a significant consideration. It's a good idea to try producers on both sides to come to understand your preferences.

THE GRAPES & WINES:

Piedmont's primary grape is Nebbiolo, which is used to make the esteemed wines of Barolo and Barbaresco named after the villages. Other wines of the region are named after the grape. Notable red grapes are Barbera and Dolcetto that make a bit lighter and more everyday drinking wines. Barbara has become one of my favorite pizza wines; its high acidity balances the fruit, and the low tannins make it so food-friendly. 

Despite their proximity to each other, Barolo and Barbaresco are quite different because of the soil composition and the climate. Barolo wine is known for its big and bold taste profile, while Barbaresco is a bit softer, more elegant with finesse. Barbaresco's fertile land with calcareous clay, lower elevations, and the proximity to the Tanaro river makes it a bit warmer. These characteristics translate to less but always present tannins, with aromas that tend to be more floral. 

The reds often overshadow Piedmont's white wines; however, there are still some incredible finds. One to try is Arneis, highly aromatic with aromas of apricots, pears, and almonds, a medium-bodied crisp wine. Arneis is grown in the Roero hills on the left bank of the Tanaro River. Some of the best examples are from Giacosa, Ceretto, and Vietti.

Gavi is one of my favorite summertime go-to whites, made from the Cortese grape. These wines are refreshing and crisp with an underlying minerality. Look for those from Gavi DOCG, which require 100% Cortese. 

Another unique to Piedmont white grape is Moscato. This is used to make inexpensive sweet sparklers and dessert wines. International grapes account for a tiny portion, and mostly it's Chardonnay, which produces sparkling wines. Alta Lange DOCG is a specific appellation for metodo classico (traditional method) sparkling. 

The Lange places importance on single-vineyard wines and estate bottlings. It's one of the few places in Italy where they have defined vineyard crus (181 geographical distinctions in Barolo and 66 in Barbaresco). In Barolo’s five key subzones, here is a Cru to take note of in each: Cannubi (Barolo), Brunate (La Morra), Villero (Castiglione Falletto), Parafada (Serralunga), and Bussia (Monforte). Be sure to document your favorites as you taste your way around this DOCG.

One other thing to point out regarding the wines of the region is a rift that occurred during the eighties. A group of winemakers known as the Barolo Boys believed there was a need to modernize the wines to make them more approachable (think heavily oaked and higher in alcohol). A significant distinguishing factor among producers is oak's use to manage the tannins; more traditional is large aged Slavonian oak barrels that depart very little oak. Today many producers fall somewhere in-between using both conventional barrels and barriques for their reserve single-vineyard wines. 

HOW TO VISIT:

The Langhe is only an hour away from Turin, which has an international airport, and two hours from Milan, so it's very accessible. You could take the train to Alba and home base from there unless you want to stay in one of the many small communities surrounded by vineyards. Despite the winding roads, the Langhe is a compact area, so you don't have to travel far to visit a range of villages and wineries.

One nice feature is the marked trails that run through the vineyards and connect the wine villages, so it's possible to do some wine tasting without driving. However, it’s best to rent a car to visit the many little towns and explore the entire area. Winery appointments are required. If you are looking for a local guide, I can offer a recommendation.

Many of the castle towns have cooperative tasting rooms where you can educate yourself on the area's nuisances. We found the people at the Cantina Comunale di La Morra so accommodating and eager to share a taste of their favorite little-known producer of this sub-region.

WHO TO VISIT:

There are so many outstanding producers; it would be hard to go wrong. Of course, those you've most likely heard of, Giacomo Conterno and Gaja, are two of the most sought-after producers. Unless you know someone, these come with a high price tag for a visit. 

One of our personal favorites is Bruno Giacosa. Bruno was one of the legendary winemakers of Piedmont. His endless pursuit of perfection, his intimate knowledge of the terrain, and his desire to produce site distinguished wines drew recognition and helped establish Piedmont as a leading wine region. His legacy rests with daughter Bruna, who continues to uphold her father's winemaking philosophy to respect traditional techniques while using the best of modern technology. 

Here are a few visits that stood out for us, and I've noted some of our favorite wines;

Oddero:

A beautiful estate to visit in Barolo, where 5th generation Mariacristina now operates the winery. The setting is idyllic, with vineyards surrounding the winery and the estate overlooking the hills with La Morra in the distance. Oddero is an outstanding Barolo producer with an extraordinary collection of premier sites (Brunate, Bussia, Vignarionda, and Gallina in Barbaresco). Their winemaking style allows these sites to express their quality and character.

GD Vajra:

A family-run winery whose vineyards are located in Vergne, the highest village on Barolo’s western edge. The winery consistently produces well-priced wines from the Langhe, with over 15 labels all made from 150 acres (60 hectares) of vines sprinkled throughout the region. We had a fantastic tasting of so many of these wines; Barolo Albe is one of the most exceptional values, their Barbera Superiore (a personal favorite), and the Dolcetto (which could turnaround even the most stubborn Dolcetto naysayer). This is the first place I tried the Freisa grape; dark, rich, intense with a hint of tantalizing bitterness. They even have a Riesling, which is unique for this region. Their classic and finessed single-vineyard Barolo Bricco delle Viole was a standout. 

Massolino:

The estate has some of the Barolo's most enchanting and dramatic vineyards. It's easy to see the Alps' snow-capped peaks in the distance from their deck on a clear day. Massolino is a multi-generational family in the historic village Serralunga d'Alba located on the eastern side of Barolo. They have multiple cru vineyards, and they will show and explain the topography to you before touring and tasting the wines. They completed their new cellar, built underground to preserve the town's views and open space. Their Barolo Classico is an outstanding, non-cru wine; it brings out the producer's growing philosophy and attention to quality. One of the cru wines we tasted was their Parafada, the soil consists of marly lime, and the sun exposure is due south with a ridge that protects the vines from the wind. In the glass, there was an intensity to the nose, great structure, and my final note says elegant. This wine is one for aging and a perfect suitcase wine.

Elio Grasso:

In the far southeastern area of Barolo, you'll find Elio Grasso in Monforte d'Alba. We enjoyed an excellent tour and tasting with Roberto, a long-time friend of the family. The estate has a panoramic setting, although seemingly tucked away as you approach. After a winery tour, we started our tasting with the Dolcetto, followed by their Barbara, then on to their Lange Nebbiolo. This wine was divine, brimming with bright red fruits, spice, and fresh floral notes. Following the Langhe Nebbiolo, we tasted two single-vineyard Barolo wines, Ginestra Casa Maté and Gavarini Chiniera. The Chiniera is brightly floral, a complex wine, with everything in balance. It was all there for me, but it certainly needs time in the bottle. The Casa Maté is a wine of beauty; pure, structured, and balanced. There's nothing out of place; it just needs time. Two wines you can't go wrong with, you'll want to find a place in your suitcase.

Albino Rocco:

In the Barbaresco region, this is a must-visit, with three sisters behind the winery. We had a lovely tasting with Daniela, who told us how their grandfather started the winery and how her late father brought many innovations making their wines a reflection of the terroir. Their vineyards reside just outside of the town Barbaresco on some impressive hillsides with three different crus. Their Barbaresco "Angelo" was born out of our desire to remember their father with a special wine to match his immense passion for Nebbiolo. It uses a combination of the three Barbaresco crus and vinifying in large oak casks.

Cigliutti: 

Two sisters run the winery; you'll taste with one while the other, the winemaker, spends her time in the vineyards. They joke that there must be something in the water in Barbaresco because this generation is all women. I'm all for supporting this trend. Look for their Seraboella single cru; it is a must to fit in your suitcase. 

Cascina delle Rose:

The vision of Giovanna, an entrepreneur who started the winery and is now assisted by her two sons David and Ricardo. Starting with her grandparent's family home, she turned it into a bed & breakfast and expanded it into a winery. I almost didn't want to share this because the wines are so good, but a small production and hard to find.

WHERE TO STAY AND EXPLORE:


 Barolo is the most famous village, and a must-stop when in the region, but we loved the charming town of La Morra.  The views here are amazing, and we used this as a home base to explore. You can stroll through the vineyards just outside the town of La Morra to discover a small chapel that has been painted in vibrant colors to stand out from the old-world lure. And on the east side of this region, the towns of Serralunga d'Alba and Monforte d'Alba are well worth a visit. 

For a special treat, head to the town of Novello, the village produces a rare indigenous white wine called Nascetta. Have lunch at L'Angolo della Rosina and give it a try because it is exclusively grown here.  

In the town of Barbaresco, they have a wonderful enoteca, which is a converted church now paying homage to the local wines. Next to the town's tower with its observation platform, you'll find Antica Torre restaurant where you must try the tajarin pasta. After taking in the sites and filling your stomach, I propose a visit to Produttori del Barbaresco.  This cooperative of over 50 families makes some of the best wine at a great value in the region. They focus on producing single-vineyard designated wines so you can get a feel for the different terroir in this DOCG. 

We chose the town of Neive to use as a home base and found it to be one of the prettiest villages with incredible views in the Barbaresco region. I can highly recommend the Borgo Vecchio Hotel with its fabulous views and their restaurant Donna Selvatica has fantastic food. The town's wine shop, Al Nido della Cinciallegra, offers a wide selection of wines by the glass where you can sit outside sipping and eating antipasto to complete the day. The town is also famous for Grappa maker Romano Levi, who hand-painted his labels, and the designs can be seen on display as you wander the streets.

WHAT TO EAT:

Don't forget the food – in my opinion, you’ll find some of the most exceptional cuisines of Italy in this region. It's best known for truffles, but there is so much more; Carne Cruda (raw meat with olive oil), Vitello Tonnato (thinly sliced veal in tuna or anchovy sauce), Tajarin pasta (long thin egg noodles) along with a hazelnut torte for dessert. All were absolute standouts. Hazelnut groves are planted all over the valley floor, so children here grow up on Nutella.

The region is also the birthplace of the Slow Food movement. A crusade that started in protest over the opening of a McDonald's. It emphasizes authentic dishes, utilizing tradition, and taking time to prepare them. Another thing of note, Turin is the first location of Eataly. Now a worldwide chain where you can try and purchase authentic products from each region of Italy.

There are many fabulous restaurants, but L 'Osteria del Vignaiolo, located in the countryside outside of La Morra, stood out for us. Here you can sit outside on their beautiful patio and have the best local cuisine under the stars.

There is such a remarkable amount of diversity in Piedmont; food, wine, architecture, landmarks, the list goes on. It is a region I will continue to return to because there are too many wonderful things to uncover.