Amalfi Coast Italy: Travel Guide
Long before visiting the Amalfi coast, a photographer friend gave me a framed photo, now that photo is surrounded by several of my own and placed around my home. The Amalfi Coast, and particularly the town of Positano, is never far from my mind and holds a special place in my heart. I’m sure it will steal yours too.
First, let’s cover how to get there. We’ve driven all over Italy, but not on the Amalfi Coast, trust me, leave it to those experienced in maneuvering around buses on hairpin curves meant for two small cars. We’ve approached Positano from both Sorrento and Vietri Sul Mare, Sorrento being the more manageable and shorter route, but if you want to see the coastline, start in the south and explore it by boat.
Both Sorrento and Naples are worth seeing, but if you just want to get to Positano as quickly as possible, then hire a private transfer. From Naples Airport, you have an option to take a bus directly to Sorrento. If you are coming from the south, or even Rome, consider taking a train to Salerno and then take the time to see the coast on a TravelMar ferry to Positano.
Now let’s get on to what to do, see, eat, and where to stay.
Daytime:
There is no need to find a hotel with a gym; the town is built on steep hills, which provides a natural stair master. No matter what you do, plan on doing a lot of stairs, so pack the appropriate shoes. Even though you may be walking a great deal, I do suggest hiking the Path of the Gods to reward yourself with the most incredible views.
Then reward yourself with an afternoon at a secluded beach by lunching at Da Adolfo. The only way to reach there is by catching one of the little boats in the harbor with a big red fish on top for the five-minute boat trip. Book your beach chairs before you go so you can relax and spend the afternoon soaking up the sun.
You’ll want to get back out on the water, and there are plenty of excursion possibilities. The one most tourists take is the ferry to Capri, but you could also opt for a small boat trip out to one of the private islands just off the coast and kayak into the coves. Another option is a sunset cruise to the Fjord of Furore near the little adjacent town of Priano. Get Your Guide has a few boating excursion options.
Another alternative is to ferry to the town of Amalfi and, from there, take a taxi up to Ravello. Ravello could be an option to stay if you want to be “with the Gods” as they say, high above the sea and far from the crowds. The Villa Gimbrone gardens are beautiful for strolling and taking in the expansive views.
If you haven’t had the chance to visit a winery, or you want to see a heroic farming experience, here are a couple of options in the Amalfi DOC; Marisa Cuomo and Tenuta San Francesco. If you don’t make it there, at least find a bottle of their wine to taste what this region has to offer. If you are able to make it to only one winery in Campania it would be a shame, but I would opt for the full day trip to Feudi di San Gregorio. They offer the widest variety of local wines with a fabulous restaurant so you can enjoy a lovely afternoon meal.
Evening:
You have to have an Aperitivo at sunset, and for the most stunning views, head to one of two bars at the Le Sirenuse hotel, Franco’s, which is outside and just past the hotel entrance, or the Champagne and Oyster bar inside the hotel. Bar Bruno has an equally beautiful view, sitting adjacent to the street, as you continue up the hill from Francos.
Our favorite meal was had at Da Vincenza restaurant for fantastic local food. A place that is tucked right next to the road, so it may not be the most romantic. If you want something nice and quiet, try Max Restaurant, which has a great wine list.
You can top the evening off with a nightcap at Music on the Rocks, head out to their patio on the beach and catch the lights of the city.
To Stay:
If you can, the ultimate splurge would be to stay the Le Sirenuse. Not only does it have the best views, a pool, and fantastic bars and restaurants, but the service is top-notch. Hands down the best we have ever experienced; yes, it comes at a steep price, but we did get a couple of private boat excursions included, and there are too many amenities to name. With nearly the same views, you could also check out Torre Sponda. This boutique lodging is a small family estate with five oversized view rooms. It has a small swimming pool and private access to a beach.
Positano is not an inexpensive destination, but you can find ways to cut some corners. For example, grab a picnic lunch and take a water taxi to a small town’s beach. We’ve always visited in the shoulder season, the end of May and September. This period is not only helpful on the pocketbook, but the crowds will have thinned too.
No matter how you play it, John Steinbeck was right, “Positano bites deep.” You’ll be planning your return soon after you are gone.
